Why not start this fashion report with a word straight from the shows in Paris? Filipa Fino, US Vogue’s Senior Accessories Editor, opens her Paris notebook. ” Had a great visit to the Christian Louboutin showroom where I saw the most fantastic studded velvet slipper shoes (for immediate gratification go to Stubbs and Wootten, where you can personalize your own pair)…. Fashion Trend of the Moment: shoulder pads. Every chic fashionista is sporting some kind of padded-shoulder jacket: Candy Pratts Price’s is knit; Lauren Santo Domingo’s is like a blouse; Vanessa Traina’s is leather…. Loving: A new model named Irina. Spotted her at the Palais Royale on a little shopping escapade. She was so chic and casual in her black skinny jeans and Clarks desert boots: makes me want to run to the Clarks store now—if it weren’t for the four-inch heels I am in…. The Must-Have bag: The new Nina Ricci bag is on the shoulders of…pretty much everyone! One editor transports her gorgeous crocodile version inside her Balenciaga tote to protect it from the Paris drizzle. “ Now, that is traveling in style…Now you know what to buy…
Looking great here with alot of new sharp pieces:
- The amazing black leather, rock chick skinny pants: oooh la la…So cool. So Balmania. Wear them with your tweed blazer with serious shoulder pads and serious monster shoes. Wear them if you think you can actually squeeze into them. $599. Not cheap but since we are at the beginning of the black leg over the knee boot/pant trend you will get seasons of wear and lots of bite for the bucks.
- Love the floral 40’s chiffon frock with a tiny blossom print in burgundy, brown and blue. It has ¾ sleeves and little covered buttons. You know a floral vintage dress is one of the key pieces for winter. It’s not really BoHo but more about a 70’s vibe. You want to wear this with a leather jacket, or a fur jacket, black opaques, and your favourite stomp-a-licious heels. Best news? The dress is now reduced to $199
- There are a couple of cool black leather biker jackets here: One has a low square almost plunging neckline and brass zip detail and the leather is nice but it is $699. I didn’t try it on. It’s very “fashion”….
- Check out the simple easy to wear round neck, grey, sleeveless, sweater dress $149. it has it’s own belt too. This is a good one to wear right now and then later into winter. Ditch the belt and throw on your own Alaia one.
- Oh, I do love the black shiny leggings if I could only wear them …..they will work in winter with a longer jacket that can hide drooping bits or floppy bottoms. $39
- Buy the cuffed, semi floppy, harem pants if you have not bought any yet. You know you need to. NEED to. The harem pants are cool, ageless, for anyone. They are THE pant of the season. Just make sure you wear something chic, grownup and tailored so you don’t look like I Dream of Genie. It looks like these ones do not have the low crutch situation which means they do good things: skim over the thighs and give you a waist. They have side pockets and a small little non descript buckle on the hem $149.
- You want the dark denim parachute pants: How cool. Ditto when wearing these….Dress up that denim with a serious structured jacket, shoulder pads, heels, and amazing necklace. You could throw this back with a little sequin Tank. And heels. You know you HAVE to wear heels. The higher the better. The Paris/Milan runways were full of humongously high heels. SO high you need an oxygen mask. (My tip for the recession? Become a podiatrist! You will be raking in millions about 5 years time: Then you can buy Prada shoes for the rest of your life) $99
- Buy the soft cream/silver shiny plastic zip up ‘Chintz’bomber jacket. $169. This is chic. It’s a casual, soft, easy, floppy jacket that says I want to go out on weekends with jeans and skinny pants. Or it will be happy to go to work with you and your pencil skirt. Remember mix it up: a Floppy jacket needs a narrow skirt or pants. Floppy pants need a fitted sharp jacket.
- Love the stone leather Chanel style short square, panelled jacket: it has a cut off round collar with a cute little ruffle at the neck line $699. If you can’t do the biker/bomber jacket then go for a more chic de la chic look. It will work equally well with jeans or a pretty dress. It will love going out, it will love a gin and tonic too. Hic.
Head here for cheap but chic pieces ( TIP: you don’t have to be 15)
Best buys are:
- The amazing black sequin leggings (OK: You do have to be kind of young to wear these.).$89. These are cool worn with a cropped jacket and your YSL short boots. Bless anyone who can wear these.
- For a more classic look check out the V neck purple, black, or grey long knit cardigans with front pockets. You could wear this with the black sequin leggings and a white Tee $69
- Everyone needs grey dark denim jeans $99. Everyone. So shut up and go and buy some….
- Buy the amazing black leather military jacket…so Balmania. $299. Cool
- Checkout the silk bomber jacket $149 ..So Balenciaga or was it Gucci?
- The black leather sleeveless vest with epaulettes and brass buttons and a fold over front: It’s very rock chic ; love it with a pretty skirt or over a floral dress. $199
- Love the silver lurex stretchy belt $29. Also in bronze.
You will be surprised how much more fashion it is here: I even see peg leg pants and jumpsuits….what the? fabulous!
Best buys are:
- Love the purple velvet blazer; so chic. Yes, you can wear purple if you tone it down with more chic colours $$
- You want the shag-a-delic furry waistcoat $149…but it’s in white and I fear I may look like sheep.. I want BLACK….
- Oh I see a short double breasted, belted cotton stone trench with tortoiseshell buttons and epaulettes $169….wear it undone over Everything you own. Even your PJ’s.
- You want the high waist 70’s wide leg jeans in dark denim and no obvious coloured stitching with a seam at the front $99. Cool. Watch the high waist suck in the muffin top. Bingo. Put down that almond croissant: it doesn’t mean you eat.
- There is a chic grey knit cape (or wrap?) kind of loose cardigan with a few tasssles: it’s short and cropped. Wear when you are relaxing and drying out in rehab ( when you still need to look effortlessly chic ) $99
- The hippy multi print dress in burgundy, blues and browns and yellow is a great buy. Love this with big platforms and gladiator heels. You need to toughen it up or you will look last season. Oh God. Anything but that….$159.
CK Calvin Klein: I LOVE this store: Minimalist, architectural, fabulous fabrics and understated strong chic;
- The cotton drape cap sleeve grey or black straight dress: it’ still the season of the dress (but trousers are the new hot look). You can throw this on and it will keep its shape; None of that frou frou floppy look here. $499
- Love the black sweater with a cross over front and cap sleeves that stick out wide over the shoulders. You know shoulders are the new IT Zone: so anything with shoulder pads or big puff sleeves are De rigueur. $279
- Adore the navy minimalist jacket in wool with a round neck , almost a short bomber with side slit pockets and hidden buttons $699. Put it in and feel a million bucks. The quality is fabulous and you will love this because it’s got I am not trying too hard feel to it. A certain Insouciance. Mai oui
- The grey round knit tank $99 is quite the piece for every wardrobe. Wear a la YSL under a navy sleeveless jacket and high waist peg pants. Don’t frown. (Botox is getting trop cher). You will wear peg pants. You will.
- The straight architectural sleeveless black or navy sheath dress is fabulous. It has a drape detail that hangs from the shoulders at the back . Wear now with bare legs and then straight into winter under a shrunken boyfriend jacket $499. Divine.
- You will die – I die thank you Rachel Zoe - over the black wool peacoat with a kind of cape detail on the sleeves $$. This is a fabulous buy because the sharp cut gives you a shape: you can trick people you have a great figure. It will work equally well with your jeans or with skinny black pants or a dress.
- You must have the wide, cuffed black pants: so chic. These will be the core of your wardrobe. Wear with converse or will heels. Keep the top fitted so you don’t do an impersonation of Fatty Arbuckle.
- Buy up the BEST simple cotton long sleeve grey , navy, black or white classic tee $89! Yes please.
- By the way the knit wear and the tops are now 25% off….
The shoes and bags are getting better and better. And we LOVE the jewellery…
Best buys are:
- The black lace up boots with feathers along the top are fabulous. Only for the serious fashion types who love a bit of Theatre. And why not have fun with your feet? You can buy now and wear when it’s cold with your black opaques. These outrageous little shoe boots will add vava voom to all your sad, bored, tragic clothes snoring in the bottom of your wardrobe. $699.
- Checkout all the chic shoulder bags, some for evening and some for just being fabulous : Buy the silver chain mail evening bag in bronze or gunmetal, gorgeous with a chain strap and a floppy shape $299
- Adore the snakeskin shoulder bag in patchwork with silver hardware. $399
- In the jewellery you want the silver multi chain “ice maiden choker”. It has a big disc and many chains and is quite dramatic $299. You know that the statement necklace is the most important accessories of the season? You do?. Maybe you just forgot. …Think Marc Jacobs, Burberry, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton…Stack it all on ( and keep the rest simple: your name is not Lou Lou de la Falaise. Sorry.)
- Love the multi silver and pearl strand short necklaces $449… it’s a serious and dramatic piece but I love it with a white Tee and jeans and chic jacket. Give the necklace a canvas to work on so all the attention goes to the necklace ( and not your fat thighs and last seasons jeans)
- How can I resist the choker actually called Vava Voom? Very Elsa Peretti inspired it has drop chain mail tassels and Swarovski crystals and black jet. $159.
- Also keep any eye out here for the fabulous jewelled cuffs $169, the silver studded bangles $39 and the wide chunky faceted bangles $149. Stack up the bangles. It’s a great look for summer when your arms are bare….
I see a lot more fashion pieces here: still classic with more of an edge.
Standout pieces are:
- The fabulous print ( very Marni esque) dress. It’s sleeveless silk with a black and white painterly check in black and white on the top and then a red and white check on the skirt $299. it’s called the Sabrina dress. The dress - and especially the print dress- are still hanging in there for another season. You will get seasons of wear. And anyway I love anything that is trans-seasonal. Wear this now and later with your favourite monster heels and black opaques….and later when it’s really cold with a fake fur chubby jacket. There is also a skirt version of the skirt $179
- Checkout the leather bomber jacket $499 with a zip. The other leather jacket which I prefer has a hidden zip and is more understated. After all you don’t want to look like you’re in the Village people singing YMCA $499. Do I have to tell you how to wear a biker jacket? No! Surely you know by now?… (If you don’t be thankful you have subscribed to The FiFi Report. Keep reading. The crazy psychology of fashion will be explained. Your days as a dag are over.)
- You want a classic long line red fine knit cardigan with brass buttons and cute little epaulettes. These give it an edge and make it a little more fashion so you don’t look like Doris Day or straight from the set of Mad Men. The epaulettes sex it up. $139. Wear over a white tee and a full skirt. Please don’t do up all the buttons. The idea is just to do one or two at the waist. Unless you are a school Marm or a NUN. Bless
- Have I seen a trench I don’t love? Buy the one here that is single breasted in cotton. And yes, it’s black $379
- You want a flippy skirt this season. They look so right with a tight jacket flirting and swirling out ( it’s that fit n flare silhouette). Love the dark grey knit flippy skirt which has flat front -very flattering- and then flips out into a full skirt. Very Alaia in a way. If you know Alaia. $199
- Love the belts here ; you want the black patent one with a big resin clasp…$99
Shoes, and bag Heaven.
You also want the clothes: Best buys include:
- The Divine furry shag-a-delic caramel or in blue waist coat $1200
- The navy loose wrap cardigan $$, Snuggle into this on the pointy end of the plane
- The navy coat dress with buttons down the front in wool jersey: it’s collarless with patch pockets $1500 ,
- The navy trench with no obvious buttons, belted, it’s rather fabulous $1400
- The print floral paisly print dress with a drawstring waist and poets sleeves $$ is the epitome of Chic Boho. Wear with boots.
- The purple paisley silk blouse is perfect for jeans and chinos $1100
- The black leather biker jacket with brass zip is gorgeous. YOU NEED it $$
- Can we talk about the quilted ruched shoulder bags? Divine about $1400
- Adore the python platform sling back heels $$….Gorgeous.
Hot off the runways of Paris…
Louis Vuitton Fall 2009 Ready to Wear ( Review from Style.com)
“Marc Jacobs ended the season at Louis Vuitton in Paris as he began it with his own show in New York: with the eighties. Different city, different accent, though, and this slice of the late eighties—ruffled, ruched, and poufed as it was—looked as if Jacobs had pulled out his 1987 magazines and worked up a playful homage to Christian Lacroix. He didn’t quite put it that way backstage, however. Jacobs said that, partly in preparation for the Model as Muse exhibition at the Met and his role as honorary chair of the opening gala, he was thinking of “all those great French muses of the late eighties.” Specifically, he cited Marie Seznec (who modeled for Lacroix), Victoire de Castellane (who worked for Chanel), and Inès de la Fressange (who was virtually French fashion mascot in chief at the time). Looking back on those days of chichi fashion extremes brought out a lot of jeune Parisienne frivolity in the clothes, if not the staging, which was done, pseudo-salon style, without a runway (albeit in a large transparent tent parked, as usual, in a courtyard of the Louvre). The chance of a close inspection revealed lots of puffy peplum jackets, tons of shirring and ruching (in print or leather), bubble skirts, bejeweled satin leggings, and a mini lace Marie Antoinette pannier dress with a saucy sheer balconette. Jacobs’ take on big shoulders ran from grosgrain bow-smothered balloon puffs to the widest short coats (in camel or red) on any runway—almost as broad as they were long. It was also a rich accessory fest for the leather goods company. Leather necklaces and belts came fashioned like paper chains, and thigh boots were topped with ruffles and balanced on pearl and glitter-covered heels. The all-important bags had also acquired eighties pie-crust frills and gilded monograms. If it wasn’t quite the fashion tour de force of Vuitton’s Spring collection, this penultimate show of an often dour and cautious season read as a welcome interlude of cheerful, flirty confidence in a post-crash depression. ”
MIU MIU Fall 2009 Ready to Wear ( Review from Style.com)
“Miuccia Prada wrapped up fashion month with a compelling Miu Miu collection that, like more than a few others this season, felt quintessentially Parisian. With bits and pieces from Histoire d’O, Visconti’s Conversation Piece, and Fassbinder and Antonioni films on the soundtrack, it tried to answer the question, “What’s the bourgeoisie now?” Or so the designer explained backstage, adding, “they were different kinds of femmes fatales.” The opening coat-dresses, most of them sleeveless, were worn half unbuttoned, exposing flesh-toned brassieres. Either that, or the dresses were draped in back, revealing bare expanses of skin a-shimmer from light dustings of iridescent glitter. A strategically draped long scarf edged in fur, meanwhile, might stand in for a missing shirt. Prada sent out coats and dresses made from what could’ve been upholstery fabric salvaged from the tony Avenue Foch manse where the show was held, then moved on to looks that paired filmy silk blouses with long, narrow skirts (the most striking combination came in turquoise and ruby). Toward the end, she put aside the underwear fetish that was a through line with her signature collection (in Milan it was red briefs) to show sleeveless shells and skirts in silk crepe embroidered with large, colorful gems. The nude bras, furry heels, and paillette-covered kneesocks gave the vaguely seventies-feeling clothes an erotic subtext. But sexually charged undercurrents aside, what this Miu Miu outing boiled down to was a collection of great-looking, salable coats.”